Birthday in Belgium!

The Grand Place in Brussels, Belgium

Mariott Hotel - Ghent, Belgium

View from Hotel - across the canal

One of the most wonderful advantages to living in Europe is the easy travel.  Whether it is a short plane ride to any other European country, a train, a metro, or a bus, there is a sense of travel that only belongs to Europe.   I have spent many wonderful birthdays (mostly due to the Labor Day weekend) in Europe at such fabulous places as Positano, Mallorca (Spain), Sorrento, Milan, and now I can add Belgium to the list!  Ghent may just be my new favorite European City!  The Marriott Hotel in Ghent lies right on the canal where ginger bread houses right out of a fairytale line both sides of the waterway.  Eateries and café’s also abound as do the beautiful boats that await tourists to sit and float down the river and view the city from an extraordinary location.  Since Belgium is also known for its beer, pubs abound and cobble stone streets lead to more cobble stone streets with more pubs, outdoor markets, flea market treasures, and benches to rest.  Every store is adorned with Belgian style brick or stonework that reaches up to the 6^th and 7^th stories because the taxes for the buildings only include the width and depth, not the height.  Storefronts are adorned with European products I had not seen as detailed anywhere else.  The Belgian waffle shops could be smelt before they were visible, and the best tasting carmelized waffles melted in your mouth when mixed with the crème and topping of your choice (I picked chocolate!) Belgian Chocolate stores were arrayed in enticing and beautiful layered and colorful displays of chocolate of every kind, shape, and size, and Belgian lace and linen wares were not outdone by the Belgian tapestry stores.  Along each street a major steeple or belfry could be seen through holes in the line of architecture of buildings - charm and enchantment, the kind from fairy tale lore, were everywhere.  My three favorite memories from the weekend:  1.  Standing in the Grand Plaza in Brussels as four trumpeteers, adorned in 15^th century costumes and plumes, belted out classical pieces to announce the Brussels Beer Fest.  The entire plaza, magnificent in architecture and ambience, was full of Europeans awaiting to taste the beers under the tents!  2.  Meandering on a boat down the canals of Ghent, absorbing the beauty and wonder of the town.   The best 6 Euro I believe I’ve ever spent!  3.  Walking into the Cathedral which houses the Altarpiece of Ghent by Jan Van Eyck, viewing the details of one of the greatest pieces of art and certainly of the 15^th century, while listening to a choir sing in the main church area, “Ave Maria” following by “Oh Death Where is Thy Sting”.  The sounds filled the church and I thought for a moment I must be in heaven.

Vietri!

View of Amalfi Coast from Shop Area - Notice also the ancient building in the forefront bottom and the italian clothes hanging to dry -- can you imagine this being your home?

Ceramiche Pot with Running Water

Handpainted pottery adorns each shop -- inviting you to come inside!

Vietri street - This famous city is full of tourists and locals. 

The ceramiche tiles are even on the street walls -
with every turn you discover something new and amazing!

One street lead right up to a beautiful church!

A beautiful fountain, amazing painted tiles,
and villa for an italian family in Vietri

The city Duomo peeks out above the
architecture

The Amalfi Coast - Amazing Beauty

Vietri is one of my favorite amalfi coast cities -- full of hand painted ceramiches - shop after shop after shop!  A shopper's paradise, really - it becomes overwhelming after about the 5th shop and you can't remember which design you liked best - or where it was located.  The town itself is situated towards the end of the amalfi coast.  You have to start your shopping day off with a cafe', and then away you go.  The shop owners are eager to show you their products, many of them are the artists themselves.  Beautiful, detailed and colorful works of art hang from every shop owners door enticing you to come inside.  Not many of the items are priced and the constant asking "Quanti Costa?"  or "How much is this?" is determined in a split second by the owners -- I always wonder if it's the same price for everyone who asks.... or how they can remember as there are hundreds of patterns and sizes and shapes of bowls, platters, plates, antipasti sets, tiles, urns, lamps, wall hangings - anything that can be painted.

With every turn, and down alley ways, other discoveries await you and your senses -- like the beautiful church that was nestled up at the top of a walkway - you have to explore, or you would have missed this!  Beautifully hand-painted tiles adorn the street walls with scenes of typical Italian motifs and daily routines.....

After about 15 shops, I had found my favorite, and of course the most expensive.  The owner could speak broken English, and with my broken Italian, we were able to communicate colors, designs, and patterns, ... and cost, of course.   A biscotti jar had my name on it - but I will wait until we move into our villa -- buying a piece of art, meeting the artist, traveling these streets -- it all provides the memory that goes along with the art piece.   It gives "Made in Italy" an entirely new mindset.  I will return to Vietri soon.  It was a great day......

A Trip to Procida

Island of Procida
Many islands are accessible by ferry and hydrofoil from Naples.  Of course there is the well known island of Capri, and then there’s Ischia with its legendary Roman spas and baths which we went to many times before (heavenly!), and the Amalfi Coast (Sorrento and Amalfi) are both accessible by ferry boats.  One island not often heard of is Procida.  Some of Troy’s Italian staff have rented two wonderful vacation villas on this island for the summer, and invited us to join them.  We went first in early July for a day, enjoying the beautiful beach and serene views and were treated to homemade mozzarella di buffala, fresh tomatoes and basil (caprese salad) and spaghetti alle vongole’.  Such a simple dish to make but so fresh and wonderful right out of this little kitchen and onto our plates.  I wonder if it will taste the same coming from my own kitchen (I took notes!).

We promised that if we returned, we would bring American food – and that we did!  A suitcase, and 3 bags full!   Hamburgers, hotdogs, chicken with BBQ sauce (specially requested) and wedged potatoes/chips/dip and all the fixings.  Chips Ahoy cookies for dessert!  You would have thought those BBQ Lays were a delicacy!  There were many “Mama Mias!!” being thrown around as all 9 of us dug in….  it was great to see their Italian version of potato salad and a wonderful peppers and olive oil side dish as well – wonderful!  Cooking outside with charcoal drew a crowd as Troy showed them his BBQ skills on the grill! 
The rest of the day was spent with the women at the beach (with lovely views of Ischia and the coast line) and the guys tulled around the island in a motor boat.  The sand is almost black due to the volcanic ash that is part of the soil and rock content.   Italy is the land of the bikini – and even grandmas (old ones) and little girls go topless at times, and are always in a bikini.  The men, for the most part, wear speedos.  People watching is a favorite past time of mine here ….. as I continue to discover and learn from this culture.  I practiced my Italian with these families, and tried to discern and pick out words as they spoke to each other.  The language is like music, full of long tones and up and down rhythms.  It’s beautiful to listen to.

After dinner, we walked around this island where the streets were not made for cars, and the philosophy is that if you have an inch to spare driving up and down these ancient roads, there is plenty of room.  The taxi drivers are experts and can race down these streets that I would be inching my way down, expecting to scrape the sides of my car all the way.   Families were out walking along, there are few or no cars as they are really not needed – taxis can get you where you cannot walk to.  Seaside restaurants were full of patrons at 10:00 p.m. and the gelato and café bars were full – the summer excitement was in the air.  The sun had set a beautiful pink and blue, and the lights of the city lit the ancient pavers in the streets.  Flowering Bouganvilla, lemon trees, lime trees (limes the size of oranges!!) and vining ivy and other floral wonders decorated the ancient walls at every turn.  Musicians were playing in the distance, and laughter sprang up from every corner.  Noone was in a hurry to do anything but relax.
The ferry ride alone is full of beauty and discoveries.  Not a bad way to spend the weekend! J

Neopolitan Food

Naples.... Home of the first Marguerita Pizza....A picture is worth a thousand words...... my jeans are now tight.....  need I say more??

Piazza Municipio

The hotel overlooks Piazza Municipio, a grassy area with trees and a fountain and is surrounded by many shops, a McDonalds (where you can order a "McToast" or grilled cheese & proscutto, and "Potata Fritte" or french fries), bus stops, policia, and public benches. The main attraction seems to be the small drinking fountain in the middle of the piazza. While walking Lily daily, and watching the Italian people in this park, I have observed this fountain's use. Mostly it's used for an occasional drink by bending over and taking in the water as it pours out of the spout. Italian men will wet their hair with it and clean their hands. The homeless fill up their daily water jugs and place them in their bags for later usage. An old, stooped woman spent much time one morning early washing her laundary meticulously in a garbage bag in the fountain's sink area, scrubbing with soap and pushing the faucet for water to rinse her wares. Children play in the water and dogs refresh themselves by lapping up what's left puddled on the old pavement below.

Jamaican men surround the piazza on the sidestreets with their fake designer purses and wears, layed out on sheets in case the polizia seize them, and then they move quicker than you can imagine -- all the goods are wrapped up immediately in that sheet and they are gone!

Laborers often gather here to yell chants around the Municipal Building HQ, which is at the head of the piazza, and often the media sits closeby, ready to film.  This must be a place where they feel they can be heard.  There is drama everywhere when they begin to chant -- it becomes contagious and soon throngs of italians are chanting their union woes in italian.  I wish I could understand the language better -- but I feel their meaning without knowing.

Last night teenagers raced vespas along the street next to the piazza, popping wheelies for the entire length of the courtyard, their friends yelling in italian to urge them on.   Socializing in the piazza is what the Italian people do - hands waving, the smiles and laughter and music of their language filling the air.  It's pure entertainment.  These people use the piazzas to socialize and rest - it's their form of relaxation.   We as americans tend to hide in our homes, with TV being our form of relaxation and entertainment, not even talking to each other, but solely fixated on what station to watch.  Not the Italians -- they watch each other -- they play with the children, they walk their pets, they are layed back in a way that Americans don't know how to be.  I often wonder what makes our cultures so different and determines our actions and social norms.   I have to say I was a bit disappointed, and also a bit happy that a McDonald's is close by.  Just when you want something other than pasta or pizza - you can get the American meal - full of grease and American sized portions.   It's always crowded with Neopolitans!  They love it - and Troy and I have both noticed a slight weight gain overall since we were here before..... perhaps the culture is changing.... becoming more "Americanized"......

This piazza has become home for us right now.....  the smells are starting to become familiar, and people are recognizing me and my little white maltese, which often stirs up conversations for a quick pet and smile.  Lily has brought so much joy for us, and now we are sharing her with the people of this piazza every day.

Be My Guest!

Be My Guest!

Guests at the Hotel……  since I never really meet a stranger, I’ve met all kinds of people at the hotel.  It has been great watching so many different nationalities represented, trying to decipher which language they are speaking at breakfast.   I watch them with their families – and have come to the conclusion that we are all the same with our families.  The exchanges, the winks, the laughter, the touching, the sibling rivalry, the love for one another…… it’s all the same.  The clothing usually gives away the Germans and Italians.  Other countries are harder to decode:  northern Europeans for example – I can never match the language to the country, really.  Maybe with more practice.    I’ve met people from the United States mostly touring the Amalfi Coast and stopping over in Naples for one night on their way to some  place else….  My coaxing them to experience more of Naples, to walk the streets and talk to the Neoplitans doesn’t usually do much to change their plans….. I do hope it gives them a brighter perspective of this city, though.  The food cannot be touched by any other European city….. and the hidden ambiences and majesty is out there – you just have to look for it!  One family happened to be from Annapolis, MD and lives in the same housing addition as our son’s girlfriend, Jenny!  Amazing….  We also met our new Romanian friends, Laura and Traian, who have lived in San Diego since the early 80’s, when they defected from Communist Romania.  Their story should be a movie.  As Laura told me of their departure, having to leave their two girls behind with her mother, staying 15 months in a refugee camp not knowing where they would go or do….. until they were miraculously reunited with their girls (who are now successful business women in SD) and then citizens of the USA – I was in tears.  It was the most moving and touching story I believe I’ve ever heard, and certainly the only one like this I had heard first hand.  Watching the pain of those years long ago relived in Laura’s eyes and expression, and her own tears as well, gave me such an appreciation for them and what they had gone through to be “free”.  Real live stories sprang out of Laura from when they were married in the mountains by a monk, and then punished 3 months wages for the ceremony.  She told me of their house being bugged by the Communist party because they were suspicious of their loyalties.   Laura’s own mother, told her stories from the bible, but Laura was never told they were from the Bible, but secret stories just “between them” that she could not share with anyone else.  Not until Laura defected and went to church did she realize the wisdom of her mother and that the stories were from the holy word of God.   Our new friends are planning to show us their beautiful Romania next Spring! It will be so fun…..

I’ve also met groups of women – one group in particular was celebrated a 50^th birthday and had invited all her best friends to come along --  what fun they were having together, and had just returned from the Amalfi Coast, the beautiful enchanted city of Positano.

The hotel staff are now our friends as well, holding the door open for me as I walk Lily outside into the hectic city…..  “Buon Guorno”  we both say.  This evening, I said the usual “Buon Guorno” but was corrected by Roberto, the parking garage attendant who turned and said while shaking his finger at me, “Buona Sera Madame” and we both laughed!   His big grin always cheers me up!  The manager, Anna, is getting married in September, and has a glow about her.  She’s always eager and willing to help us out.  Troy is referred to as a “special guest”.  I’m the “special guests’ wife”, as no one seems to be able to remember my name.  I guess “Robin” is not really in the Italian vocabulary……..  so I’ll leave it at that J.

"Vedi Napoli e (poi) muore" or "See Naples and Die"

This ancient phrase has a controversal background, and still lends itself to controversy. The Italians say "Vedi Napoli e (poi) muore." What it means that when you've seen Naples you've seen everything, and it's safe to die.  Truly, all of the rich culture and beauty of Europe is captured in this city, from the entire Amalfi Coast, to Capri and Ischia, Pompeii, Vesuvio, the castles, the history, imperial wealth that was once here.... the oldest Opera House in all of Europe (Teatro San Carlo), to all of the towns outside the city limits, including the Palace at Caserta (a replica and gardens like Versailles), and it goes on and on and on....

Some state that it was Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe of Faust fame who coined the phrase.  Although Virgil wrote these words when referring to the natural beauty of Naples some 2,000 years ago, "See Naples and die." And what he meant was, once you’ve seen the magnificence of Naples, there’s nothing left in the world to see. Of course, since Goethe’s day, much of that magnificence has sunk into a parlous state. But it seems unfair that his phrase has become a twisted allusion to Naples’ later history of crime and Mafia corruption, thus the controversy in these words.

I like to think of this phrase as just meaning "we are so fortunate to have experienced this place during our lifetime, for surely we will reflect on this place when we are old and gray and will want to bring our grandchildren back to share it with them!"  That's my softened (and lengthy) interpretation, anyway!  I am not a woman of few words, as my husband can attest!

Come see Naples ~ Your life will never be the same!

The Hotel Mediterraneo (Mariott Renaissance Downtown)

The Mariott Renaissance Hotel is beautiful.  Our room is just outside the top main solarium, or terrace, and the view ..... oh.. the view!  Vesuvius looms just ahead to the left, followed by the amalfi coast, the isle of Capri, across to the downtown port and all of the downtown Naples architecture, castles included.  Castle St. Elmo, where Britton and Tyler's HS graduation ceremonies were held is just above us, looking down from it's perch of hundreds of years.  The Castle Nuovo is right below, and the tops of Galleria Umberto and Piazza Publicito are in the foreground.  It's a spectacular sight and the non-stop action of traffic and patronage flow below like the ocean waves just beyond the streets.  The constant breeze is lovely - this is one of my favorite feelings - to feel the wind on my face.  The giant cruise ships in the port are a daily reminder of all the people who are discovering Naples for the first time -- Oh what their thoughts must be of this chaotic and dirty city!  The treasures that are hidden within it's depths will never be discovered in one day by these tourists.... and their first impressions will be what mine were when we first landed here 8 years ago this summer......  The saying goes that you hate it the first day, after a week you are intrigued, and after a year you never want to leave.  I would agree.

Sights, Sounds, and Smells - Oh My!

Troy met me at the airport with flowers in hand!  I was certainly ready for a big hug and to relieve myself of over 100 lbs. of baggage, including our portable canine "Lily" who needed to potty and stretch!  The familiar Naples airport was full of the sounds of the Italian language, and the hustle-bustle of travelers from all over Europe.  I knew where the car would be parked (at least this time we HAD a car as Troy had been here for a couple of months already) and I prepared myself for Neopolitan driving..... what I hadn't prepared for was my husband's evolved driving techniques which could rank him as number one in the sport of Neopolitan driving.   It never ceases to amaze me that Neoplitans are in no hurry for much of anything, they walk slowly, they meander about in no rush at all, and their philosophy in life is "no worries - will do it damani (tomorrow)" UNTIL they get behind the wheel of a car, or what's worse, a vespa!  Then, it's a raceway of the unimaginable, and my husband of 29 years showed no fear as he drove with determination and familiarity to our hotel, in the heart of the downtown acropolis, near the main port and bay of Naples.   I looked at him and said "Who are you?" and we both laughed.

All along the way, I could smell the familiar fish stands, the fumes of the cars, trash burning, and my senses were heightened and alert.  Very alert.  Did that person just walk right in front of the car?  And that vespa..... had I forgotten the chaotic rhythm of this driving and the unwritten rule:  Don't run into me, and I won't run into you!  I gasped a few times and was certainly fearful of making it to our destination without a bump or dent, and I'm sure was no assistance whatsover to my patient driver who had this driving down pat.  The ancient roads criss-crossed over and over again, the aged pavers were slick and shiny by hundreds of years of use.  Smooth sailing was not in the Neopolitan driving vocabulary, and the bumping and jolting and turning along gave way for my eyes to explore this ancient city of miraculous wonder.  We passed a castle, an ancient archway built by one of the Bourbon Kings, piazzas with large monuments erected by the conquerer of a particular war, trash piles, graffiti, vegetable stands, women walking hand in hand studying the contents of the fashion windows, all the while the vespas, the smartcars, the polizia, the sounds of ambulance and buses and honking from all sides filled my senses full to bursting!  This was Naples alright.  Nothing had changed in five years.  Five years?  This city was founded by the Greeks so long ago, it was so steeped in the layering of civilizations and history, that the term "antiquity" didn't really even do it justice.  We were back.  I could smell the ancient history here.  Every day would bring a multitude of sights, sounds, and smells along with it.  I was exhausted and energized all at the same time, and the day had just begun....

Goodbye USA - Ciao Bella Napoli!

After a fun-filled trip down the east coast to visit friends on a self-declared "Friendship Tour 2011",  Lily (our 8 lb. maltese) and I had a 17-hour transit (including layovers) to Naples, Italy for our second tour.  The long plane ride provided some time to regroup and think about what the next chapter of our lives would entail.... another tour in Naples, Italy, returning to our old stomping grounds and one of the most beautiful and remarkable places we've yet to experience.  To return will mean going to "known" landmarks, not experiencing the ultimate in culture shock as we had done before, and returning without the kids.  This time around, it will be Troy and I --  exploring and experiencing our new life together, and all the beauty that awaits us for the next three years (or more).....  As the minutes and hours ticked by on the plane, I reflected on all that had happened over the past 4.5 years in PA.   Most of our lives' biggest events had occurred just the last 1.5 years alone with the marriage of both of our daughters, Troy's retirement from the US Navy, and our son's graduation from the US Naval Academy.  All wonderful and happy events, the best any family could ask for, really.  The kids are on their own, they are happy and well adjusted and off the payroll....  so when the opportunity arose for Troy to return to Italy as a Navy civilian, we opted for one last big adventure before retiring to that final home in the states to await our future grandchildrens' visits.  This was going to be "our time" this time.  I also reflected on all the many happenings of Naples past, the trips and tours all over Europe, and the fun memories that can only be experienced by living in a city full of chaos and Neopolitan tradition, culture, and livlihood.   We would return to make more memories, and to experience it once again, to see it with more mature eyes and a yearning passion for its people and its beauty.  My life was about to drastically change, and if I learned nothing more from 22 years as a military spouse, change is not always easy, but change is good.  So here goes:  Naples - Round 2!