Cooking Lesson with Salvatore

Salvatore - Chef Extraordinaire

Gnocchi making!

"This is the perfect gnocchi - the ones I made!"

Only fresh basil and herbs will do!

Gnocchi Alla Sorrentina - After the mozzarella is added!  Bellisima!

I have been wanting to learn some true Neopolitan dishes to prepare in the years to come.... So, I will share my newly learned "Gnocchi Alla Sorrentina" with you!  Recently attended a cooking class taught by "Salvatore" who has been cooking since age 8 --and has been the chef at a famous Neopolitan Restaurant for years. Although we made our own "Gnocchi" dough -- I recommend buying the gnocchi at the store and using the recipe below to make the Italian sauce. Making homemade gnocchi dough is simply not worth the trouble! The sauce can be frozen and then used again for any pasta dish. Salvatore was a bit grumpy -- and none of our Gnocchi dough was quite good enough for his expertise! He may be a great chef - but not so great of an instructor! Not the typical "charming italian" that you would expect. Nonetheless, it was a fun class and I am eager to make this at home! Just thought I would share...... The sauce is delicious!

Serves 10:

Brown and cook 5-6 pieces of veal or beef in large pot with water. Broth should only be about 1-2" in bottom of pot. Add one medium whole onion, and steam with lid on until beef and onion are tender. Broth will begin to get darker. Add bit of white wine and continue to cook/steam.

Use Italian sauce: Tagliamonte (Passata Di Pomodoro) 5-6 jars.

Remove whole onion right before adding sauce. Add 5-6 jars of sauce to beef stock. After adding sauce, add a bit of water to each jar and shake, adding to mixture - to ensure all of the sauce is used.

Simmer on low for at least 30 minutes.

Cut 4 balls of fresh mozzarella di buffala, into small pieces, and add to sauce. Sauce will turn a lighter shade of orange/pink. Continue to stir while mozzarella melts. Sauce will be laden with mozzarella.

Add gnocchi to boiling water until it floats to the top. Drain.

Add gnocchi to sauce, stir, and garnish with fresh basil on plate. Sprinkle with fresh parmesean. Delicious!

If you wish to freeze sauce, use the sauce before the mozzarella has been added to it.

House Hunters International: The Quest for the Perfect Villa!

The hunt for the perfect villa……   it truly was like watching the show “House Hunters International”.  Yet, we had many more than three choices, and narrowing it down became a longer and harder quest than we had imagined.   It’s hard to believe we have been in our international “first choice” since September, 2011!  After living in the Hotel Mediterraneo for over 3 months (more for Troy), we were certainly ready to settle down in our own place.  Having lived here before, we knew the area, and were far more selective this time around – which actually complicated our efforts as we were searching for the perfect place.   There were many trade-offs to our selection, and it was most difficult.   We are now completely settled, and are getting to know our area more and more every day we live here.  It is really an endless exploration because the history and culture are so immense.

Our top three choices included an amazing furnished apartment on the water’s edge in Posillipo.  It included a private beach area, and the view of Vesuvio was absolutely incredible.  The downsides were that we would have to pay an additional month’s rent to the realtor, and we would have to put most of our stuff in storage, plus the fact that Posillipo is isolated from any town and we really wanted to be able to “walk out” and explore in the evening and on weekends.  Another top choice was a villa compound with a panoramic view and huge yard and garden.  It was more of a country home above the town, but had ample parking and the yard area and outdoor living space was remarkable.  Hard to come by in Italy where space is limited.  Our third choice, and now our home, is a 500 year old Palace (Palazzo Maglione) which has been renovated into 10 separate apartments, with ours being the largest.  It is situated in the city center of Pozzuoli, and sits above this ancient town, with sprawling views of the Mediterranean, Capri, the Amalfi Coast, and the famous Via Napoli which runs along the water with restaurants and shops and walking areas.  The town of Pozzuoli is right below us and we can walk out to anything we need:  restaurants, city life, stores, the park, etc.  Our apartment has a wonderful contrast of ancient and modern as it hosts 500 year old frescoes that top the ceiling of our living room, yet also houses a large Italian modern kitchen and interior.  The huge doors leading out to the balconies show a constant view from our kitchen and living areas.  I can cook and gaze at Capri!  It’s an amazing view and the apartment feels grand.  One scene within the 500 year old frescoes show that one of the Princes of Spain was born here.  The frescoes on the outside stairs leading up to our apartment were painted by Vasari, a famous painter who was here in the late 1500’s.  Pozzuoli was founded in 29 BC by some political fugitives from Samos, as “Dicearchia” which in their language meant "just government."  The people of the Dicearchia area, fought against the Etruscans and Italic Greek for supremacy in this Campania region of Italy.   The Romans soon discovered the strategic importance of this city especially during the Second Punic War, when Hannibal blocked access to the sea.  The Romans took the name of Puteoli, which is derived from the abundance of mineral springs, and in 194 BC, “Puteoli”, now modern day “Pozzuoli” became a Roman colony.  The port of Pozzuoli had not only commercial but also strategic importance to the Romans.  The docks Pozzuoli saw merchants of every country, Syrian ships, tirie, Cypriot, Jewish, Egyptian.   The Serapeum, commonly known as the Temple of Serapis (still visible for us today with columns and circular walls) was actually a very elegant covered market, and is the most vivid and convincing evidence of the impressive ancient Pozzuoli trade, which reached its peak during the Imperial period.  In the spring of AD 61, from Caesarea in Palestine and to Rome, the Apostle Paul, who, having found some Christians, stayed in Pozzuoli seven days as we read in the Acts of the Apostles, Chapter 28 "... were found in Pozzuoli having brothers (Christians), they asked us to stay a week, before journeying to Rome ... ". Christianity soon came to Pozzuoli by the merchants, probably Jewish converts, and there was, from the first to the beginning of third century AD, its martyrs who were killed at the ancient amphitheatre, third largest in Italy, only blocks from our palace!

When we walk to the port, we see the fishermen bringing in their nets of fish, and sewing them up by hand to mend them from the morning’s damages.  These fisherman are worn and ragged, beaten by hard work and the Mediterranean sun’s intensity on their skin.  It’s not hard to imagine that the disciples who were fisherman probably looked very similar.

And so, every day we live here, we are transported back in history.  It is a phenomenal place to live.  We actually saw “House Hunters International” filming at another palace just a block up the street from us.  Our realtor friend was part of the filming, and we cannot wait to see if it will be aired or not!

Living Room - 500 yr. old frescoes line the ceiling!

Pozzuoli - Our city which was founded in 194 BC!  Our Palace "Palazzo Maglione" can be seen at the upper right hand corner - the large white building with gray trim.

From modern kitchen looking into living room

Kitchen looking out to large balcony windows - A room with a view!

View from balcony

Frescoes inside the Palazzo by Vasari

Interior frescoes by Vasari

Entrance dates at the gate

Frescoes in the Living Room

Panorama from the Kitchen Balcony

View of Capri - This is beautiful at night with lights of Capri twinkling

Birthday in Belgium!

The Grand Place in Brussels, Belgium

Mariott Hotel - Ghent, Belgium

View from Hotel - across the canal

One of the most wonderful advantages to living in Europe is the easy travel.  Whether it is a short plane ride to any other European country, a train, a metro, or a bus, there is a sense of travel that only belongs to Europe.   I have spent many wonderful birthdays (mostly due to the Labor Day weekend) in Europe at such fabulous places as Positano, Mallorca (Spain), Sorrento, Milan, and now I can add Belgium to the list!  Ghent may just be my new favorite European City!  The Marriott Hotel in Ghent lies right on the canal where ginger bread houses right out of a fairytale line both sides of the waterway.  Eateries and café’s also abound as do the beautiful boats that await tourists to sit and float down the river and view the city from an extraordinary location.  Since Belgium is also known for its beer, pubs abound and cobble stone streets lead to more cobble stone streets with more pubs, outdoor markets, flea market treasures, and benches to rest.  Every store is adorned with Belgian style brick or stonework that reaches up to the 6^th and 7^th stories because the taxes for the buildings only include the width and depth, not the height.  Storefronts are adorned with European products I had not seen as detailed anywhere else.  The Belgian waffle shops could be smelt before they were visible, and the best tasting carmelized waffles melted in your mouth when mixed with the crème and topping of your choice (I picked chocolate!) Belgian Chocolate stores were arrayed in enticing and beautiful layered and colorful displays of chocolate of every kind, shape, and size, and Belgian lace and linen wares were not outdone by the Belgian tapestry stores.  Along each street a major steeple or belfry could be seen through holes in the line of architecture of buildings - charm and enchantment, the kind from fairy tale lore, were everywhere.  My three favorite memories from the weekend:  1.  Standing in the Grand Plaza in Brussels as four trumpeteers, adorned in 15^th century costumes and plumes, belted out classical pieces to announce the Brussels Beer Fest.  The entire plaza, magnificent in architecture and ambience, was full of Europeans awaiting to taste the beers under the tents!  2.  Meandering on a boat down the canals of Ghent, absorbing the beauty and wonder of the town.   The best 6 Euro I believe I’ve ever spent!  3.  Walking into the Cathedral which houses the Altarpiece of Ghent by Jan Van Eyck, viewing the details of one of the greatest pieces of art and certainly of the 15^th century, while listening to a choir sing in the main church area, “Ave Maria” following by “Oh Death Where is Thy Sting”.  The sounds filled the church and I thought for a moment I must be in heaven.

Vietri!

View of Amalfi Coast from Shop Area - Notice also the ancient building in the forefront bottom and the italian clothes hanging to dry -- can you imagine this being your home?

Ceramiche Pot with Running Water

Handpainted pottery adorns each shop -- inviting you to come inside!

Vietri street - This famous city is full of tourists and locals. 

The ceramiche tiles are even on the street walls -
with every turn you discover something new and amazing!

One street lead right up to a beautiful church!

A beautiful fountain, amazing painted tiles,
and villa for an italian family in Vietri

The city Duomo peeks out above the
architecture

The Amalfi Coast - Amazing Beauty

Vietri is one of my favorite amalfi coast cities -- full of hand painted ceramiches - shop after shop after shop!  A shopper's paradise, really - it becomes overwhelming after about the 5th shop and you can't remember which design you liked best - or where it was located.  The town itself is situated towards the end of the amalfi coast.  You have to start your shopping day off with a cafe', and then away you go.  The shop owners are eager to show you their products, many of them are the artists themselves.  Beautiful, detailed and colorful works of art hang from every shop owners door enticing you to come inside.  Not many of the items are priced and the constant asking "Quanti Costa?"  or "How much is this?" is determined in a split second by the owners -- I always wonder if it's the same price for everyone who asks.... or how they can remember as there are hundreds of patterns and sizes and shapes of bowls, platters, plates, antipasti sets, tiles, urns, lamps, wall hangings - anything that can be painted.

With every turn, and down alley ways, other discoveries await you and your senses -- like the beautiful church that was nestled up at the top of a walkway - you have to explore, or you would have missed this!  Beautifully hand-painted tiles adorn the street walls with scenes of typical Italian motifs and daily routines.....

After about 15 shops, I had found my favorite, and of course the most expensive.  The owner could speak broken English, and with my broken Italian, we were able to communicate colors, designs, and patterns, ... and cost, of course.   A biscotti jar had my name on it - but I will wait until we move into our villa -- buying a piece of art, meeting the artist, traveling these streets -- it all provides the memory that goes along with the art piece.   It gives "Made in Italy" an entirely new mindset.  I will return to Vietri soon.  It was a great day......

A Trip to Procida

Island of Procida
Many islands are accessible by ferry and hydrofoil from Naples.  Of course there is the well known island of Capri, and then there’s Ischia with its legendary Roman spas and baths which we went to many times before (heavenly!), and the Amalfi Coast (Sorrento and Amalfi) are both accessible by ferry boats.  One island not often heard of is Procida.  Some of Troy’s Italian staff have rented two wonderful vacation villas on this island for the summer, and invited us to join them.  We went first in early July for a day, enjoying the beautiful beach and serene views and were treated to homemade mozzarella di buffala, fresh tomatoes and basil (caprese salad) and spaghetti alle vongole’.  Such a simple dish to make but so fresh and wonderful right out of this little kitchen and onto our plates.  I wonder if it will taste the same coming from my own kitchen (I took notes!).

We promised that if we returned, we would bring American food – and that we did!  A suitcase, and 3 bags full!   Hamburgers, hotdogs, chicken with BBQ sauce (specially requested) and wedged potatoes/chips/dip and all the fixings.  Chips Ahoy cookies for dessert!  You would have thought those BBQ Lays were a delicacy!  There were many “Mama Mias!!” being thrown around as all 9 of us dug in….  it was great to see their Italian version of potato salad and a wonderful peppers and olive oil side dish as well – wonderful!  Cooking outside with charcoal drew a crowd as Troy showed them his BBQ skills on the grill! 
The rest of the day was spent with the women at the beach (with lovely views of Ischia and the coast line) and the guys tulled around the island in a motor boat.  The sand is almost black due to the volcanic ash that is part of the soil and rock content.   Italy is the land of the bikini – and even grandmas (old ones) and little girls go topless at times, and are always in a bikini.  The men, for the most part, wear speedos.  People watching is a favorite past time of mine here ….. as I continue to discover and learn from this culture.  I practiced my Italian with these families, and tried to discern and pick out words as they spoke to each other.  The language is like music, full of long tones and up and down rhythms.  It’s beautiful to listen to.

After dinner, we walked around this island where the streets were not made for cars, and the philosophy is that if you have an inch to spare driving up and down these ancient roads, there is plenty of room.  The taxi drivers are experts and can race down these streets that I would be inching my way down, expecting to scrape the sides of my car all the way.   Families were out walking along, there are few or no cars as they are really not needed – taxis can get you where you cannot walk to.  Seaside restaurants were full of patrons at 10:00 p.m. and the gelato and café bars were full – the summer excitement was in the air.  The sun had set a beautiful pink and blue, and the lights of the city lit the ancient pavers in the streets.  Flowering Bouganvilla, lemon trees, lime trees (limes the size of oranges!!) and vining ivy and other floral wonders decorated the ancient walls at every turn.  Musicians were playing in the distance, and laughter sprang up from every corner.  Noone was in a hurry to do anything but relax.
The ferry ride alone is full of beauty and discoveries.  Not a bad way to spend the weekend! J

Neopolitan Food

Naples.... Home of the first Marguerita Pizza....A picture is worth a thousand words...... my jeans are now tight.....  need I say more??

Piazza Municipio

The hotel overlooks Piazza Municipio, a grassy area with trees and a fountain and is surrounded by many shops, a McDonalds (where you can order a "McToast" or grilled cheese & proscutto, and "Potata Fritte" or french fries), bus stops, policia, and public benches. The main attraction seems to be the small drinking fountain in the middle of the piazza. While walking Lily daily, and watching the Italian people in this park, I have observed this fountain's use. Mostly it's used for an occasional drink by bending over and taking in the water as it pours out of the spout. Italian men will wet their hair with it and clean their hands. The homeless fill up their daily water jugs and place them in their bags for later usage. An old, stooped woman spent much time one morning early washing her laundary meticulously in a garbage bag in the fountain's sink area, scrubbing with soap and pushing the faucet for water to rinse her wares. Children play in the water and dogs refresh themselves by lapping up what's left puddled on the old pavement below.

Jamaican men surround the piazza on the sidestreets with their fake designer purses and wears, layed out on sheets in case the polizia seize them, and then they move quicker than you can imagine -- all the goods are wrapped up immediately in that sheet and they are gone!

Laborers often gather here to yell chants around the Municipal Building HQ, which is at the head of the piazza, and often the media sits closeby, ready to film.  This must be a place where they feel they can be heard.  There is drama everywhere when they begin to chant -- it becomes contagious and soon throngs of italians are chanting their union woes in italian.  I wish I could understand the language better -- but I feel their meaning without knowing.

Last night teenagers raced vespas along the street next to the piazza, popping wheelies for the entire length of the courtyard, their friends yelling in italian to urge them on.   Socializing in the piazza is what the Italian people do - hands waving, the smiles and laughter and music of their language filling the air.  It's pure entertainment.  These people use the piazzas to socialize and rest - it's their form of relaxation.   We as americans tend to hide in our homes, with TV being our form of relaxation and entertainment, not even talking to each other, but solely fixated on what station to watch.  Not the Italians -- they watch each other -- they play with the children, they walk their pets, they are layed back in a way that Americans don't know how to be.  I often wonder what makes our cultures so different and determines our actions and social norms.   I have to say I was a bit disappointed, and also a bit happy that a McDonald's is close by.  Just when you want something other than pasta or pizza - you can get the American meal - full of grease and American sized portions.   It's always crowded with Neopolitans!  They love it - and Troy and I have both noticed a slight weight gain overall since we were here before..... perhaps the culture is changing.... becoming more "Americanized"......

This piazza has become home for us right now.....  the smells are starting to become familiar, and people are recognizing me and my little white maltese, which often stirs up conversations for a quick pet and smile.  Lily has brought so much joy for us, and now we are sharing her with the people of this piazza every day.